Tuesday, June 11, 2013

Suzdal! Bugs, Banya, and Beauty

This past weekend we took a little trip to Suzdal. Beautiful, quaint town. It was so great getting out of the city for a little while. Fresh air, nature, good food, and banya!!

Banya is a Russian tradition, a way of relaxing and get rid of all the toxins by sweating in a sauna (a lot) and drink tea (except in our case it was champagne). So a small group of us went to Banya, not everyone. We get our own little cabin. One room is the sauna, but the whole cabin is very warm. Next to the main sauna room, there is another room with a shower and a giant tub filled with icey-cold water. The first step is to get into the sauna until you can't handle the heat anymore. I was dripping. You then get out, exfoliate your body with a sugar scrub and then rinse down in a luke-warm shower. After, you get back into the sauna. Sweat again. Profusely. Get out when you feel like you're about to pass out, jump into the icey-cold water. It feels amazing...words can't describe. Next, you get back in that damn sauna. Except this time, Tatiana (the head of the USC Russian department/excursion leader for the trip/most amazing professor I've ever had) grabbed a small bucket of water to throw into the coals of the sauna. The steam was unbelievable. I thought I was cooking, and it burned my throat and nose to breathe. We had to bend over with our heads in our laps to even breathe. I know this sounds unbearable. Three of us couldn't handle it, and we jumped into that heavenly ice cold tub. It gets to about 200 degrees (93 C). We took a break and sat outside the sauna room for a little while. The next step is to take a small bunch of leafy birch tree branches (they smell wonderful). This is the massage part. You sprawl out on the sauna bench and another person lightly pats your body with the birch branches. The patting gradually gets more...aggressive, I guess you could say. It's supposed to improve circulation.

As uncomfortable as the process occasionally became, my body has never felt so relaxed. Especially after 5 hours of traveling. It was fantastic to be a part of a completely Russian (literally everyone in Russia does this) tradition. I want my own banya in my house! Afterwards, we went upstairs and looked out the deck of our cottage, drinking champagne. It's also a tradition to make a wish after toasting to a new experience. Champagne went to our heads a little fast, considering what we had just done...great bonding experience. I also had my first B-52 with my professor that night... yum.

The next day we went to Nevsky Monastery (for men). The grounds were beautiful. Walking through town was beautiful, too. There were horses pulling carriages and little sidewalk markets. I had the best beef stroganoff. Which reminds me, I've never mentioned the juice here. Why do we not have such juice in America?? When they say fresh squeezed, it is honestly fresh squeezed. Right there. I got apple juice one time, it was like drinking a green apple. The grapefruit juice is fantastic, too.

My one complaint would be the insects. We were all eaten alive, despite an ample supply of bug spray. Bugs aside, I loved this trip.

Медовуха (midovucha)/home-brewed honey beer is also delicious.






The little pond that braver souls jump in after sitting in the banya (two in our group did it)


Entrance to our banya cabin.


The view from our porch at the banya.


The main building to rent Banyas.





Tatiana leading us into town.

















Prison for Old Believers within the Nevsky Monastery.


Our group sans me!


Lots of butterflies in the monastery's garden.




Hello from a tree...



Mom and Bev will appreciate this.


4 comments:

  1. Marvelous post! The photos are beautiful. Yes, love the ducklings! Thank you! Not to mention you look gorgeous as a model in the tree shot!! Glad no one passed out in the Banya. I would NEVER survive. But does sound relaxing. Glad you were able to eat some delicious stroganoff and fresh juice. Which person is your roommate? Can't wait to hear about the Russian Ballet field trip.

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    1. My roommate is the girl with the long blonde hair in the sunglasses. She's great!

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  2. KATE I LOVE YOUR BLOG!!! I've been reading it but TOTALLY just realized that there was a place to add comments... hahaha. So lad you are having such an amazing time! Can't wait to see you when you come home!! (this is erika btw, i don't know why it won't show my name...)

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  3. May I borrow that scarf when you get back home? Yes? Kay, thanks! Haha, I kid, I kid. You are a brave soul for going into that sauna... how much more unbearable is it in comparison to the body wrap?

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